Some Champagnes make a bold entrance, while others, like Drappier Clarevallis Organic Extra Brut, take a subtler approach, inviting conversation. Editor Trudi Brewer and wine writer Joelle Thomson share a Champagne with a story steeped in rich organic history - a Champagne with elegant presence.
Rooted in Urville’s Kimmeridgian limestone soils in Côte des Bar, southeastern France, this Champagne is shaped by centuries of Cistercian heritage. Saint Bernard was associated with Clairvaux Abbey, which he founded in 1115. A monk from Cîteaux Abbey near Clos Vougeot, he re-established the vineyard and imported the Morillon Noir grape variety (an ancestor of Pinot Noir) from Burgundy.
The Drappier family’s connection with Urville dates to 1808, when François Drappier settled there and began farming vines. Following World War II, the family bought the historic cellars in the village, which had once formed part of the Cistercian complex. The vineyard's history is intertwined with the powerful Cistercian order and the Counts of Champagne. At the same time, the Drappier family later forged its own connection with Napoleon Bonaparte and his imperial court. From medieval monks to imperial France, its history is as fascinating as the wine itself.
Today, it's the eighth generation of the Drappier family that runs the vineyard, which has now earned the well-deserved accreditation of being carbon neutral.
The grapes are still mainly grown in the village of Urville and are still influenced by Pinot Noir. This variety thrives in the Bar-sur-Aube, where Pinot Noir has become central to the area's identity. With milder winters and warm summer days, Pinot Noir represents 70 per cent of the Drappier estate crop, supplemented by Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay as well as a few old grape varieties.
Organic, elegant, and easy on the palate, this Champagne house has long been associated with organic farming and those centuries of Cistercian history rolled into one bottle. Drappier's organic credentials are more than a nod on the label. The estate became the first carbon-neutral Champagne estate in the region back in 2016, with certification by EcoAct. Its approach combines modern technology with traditional vineyard practices: solar panels, electric vehicles and equipment sit alongside manual weeding, partial grass cover and horse-drawn ploughing.
The estate has also embraced organic viticulture, with part of its vineyard certified organic and additional hectares in transition, while the wider estate is managed in line with sustainable practices. The aim is to work with the vineyard rather than against it — encouraging biodiversity, protecting the soil and reducing erosion. While organic farming doesn’t automatically give a wine a distinct flavour, it influences the condition of the vineyard, the health of the soil, and the integrity of the environment in which these grapes thrive.
First impression?
It is one of breadth. Extra brut in name and dry in taste - the words low dosage mean that this Champagne is drier than most, and it has a lively lightness with aromas of apple, lime and lemon freshness, with lingering toasted almond aromas. This is a deliciously delicate champagne with a medium body and outstanding citrusy notes that make it a great match with food. Once in the glass, its pretty copper-gold shimmer immediately sparks joy, hinting that this is one of the most delicate of Champagnes.
Drappier Clarevallis Organic Extra Brut, $96
To serve: Well chilled, around 7°C, in a tulip-shaped Champagne glass to allow its delicate aromas to open while preserving its fine bubbles.
Graze with: Oysters, fresh citrus ceviche, hard cheeses, and Parmesan crackers.
Dine with: Mushroom risotto, roast chicken and seasonal vegetables.
The take-home
Drappier Clarevallis Organic Extra Brut feels made for the moment when aperitif becomes dinner, or when a gathering with friends stretches into a long, memorable lunch. It captures what makes Champagne so much more than a celebratory pour. This is a Champagne for someone who wants it to do more than sparkle — to have a sense of place, a sense of purpose and, most importantly, a reason to pour another glass.
Join us for an afternoon with Drappier Clarevallis Organic Extra Brut at The Northern Club on September 25th for our next BeautyEQ Long Lunch.
And enjoy a fabulous afternoon.