If you have sensitive skin, choosing skincare can often feel like a gamble. The same ingredients that promise brighter, healthier skin can also sting, flush or trigger irritation. Editor Trudi Brewer shares the safest ingredients to use and how they can both calm and correct the skin.
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Sensitive skin needs plenty of TLC, but dermatologists say you don’t have to skip top ingredients in your skincare routine; you just need to know which ones are right for you. It all starts with antioxidants, which remain among the most important ways to protect skin from pollution, UV exposure, and everyday oxidative stress. Here is a guide to choosing antioxidant ingredients that provide barrier support and deliver benefits without the backlash.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is one of the most researched antioxidants, but certain forms, especially pure ascorbic acid, can be too aggressive for reactive skin. “If rosacea is actively flaring, ingredients like vitamin C can sometimes worsen irritation,” says dermatologist Jason Chouake. “But when the condition is stable, a gentle formulation can absolutely be part of a daily routine.” The key is choosing vitamin C derivatives, which are tolerated. “Formulas that rely on pure ascorbic acid can be irritating for sensitive skin.” The other issue is stability; the more potent the formula, the faster it oxidises.
Avène Vitamin Activ Cg Radiance Concentrated Serum, $82
Avène have built thier brand around caring for sensitive skin. Their thermal spring water is the base of the skincare collection, which is enriched with silicates, magnesium, calcium, and microflora, and clinically proven to calm flare-ups. This serum formula has a high concentration of three age-erasing ingredients. First, Vitamin Cg a highly potent and stable ascorbyl glucoside, in a water-soluble form that is equivalent to 20 per cent pure vitamin C. Next is niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, which brightens skin, reduces dark spots and strengthens the skin barrier. In contrast, gentle bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative to retinol (which can irritate sensitive skin), helps smooth fine lines.
azelaic acid
Vitamin C is not the only option for antioxidant protection. One antioxidant gaining attention is azelaic acid. This can help protect the skin while calming inflammation. “If I had to choose one antioxidant for my rosacea patients, it would be azelaic acid,” says Dr Chouake. “Its ability to improve rosacea is well known, and it’s even FDA-approved as a treatment.” Unlike vitamin C, which neutralises free radicals directly, azelaic acid helps reduce reactive oxygen species linked to redness, hyperpigmentation and oxidative damage.”
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, $18
You can trust The Ordinary to deliver fuss-free formulas with potent ingredients at concentrated levels. This brightening moisturiser was made to help uneven, blemish-prone, sensitive skin. With a high concentration of azelaic acid (10 per cent), this antioxidant, extracted from grains, visibly improves skin texture and is gentle enough to use daily. It’s also free from oil, silicone, and alcohol.
Polyphenols
Polyphenols are a group of antioxidants that help neutralise environmental stress while remaining gentle on sensitive skin. They are abundant in tea leaves and in fruits such as grapes, strawberries, and blackberries. “Like gallic acid and vitamin E, polyphenols are valuable because they help neutralise environmental stressors such as pollution and oxidative damage that can accelerate visible ageing and impair the skin barrier,” says dermatologist Rachel Westbay.
Caudalíe VinoHydra Deep Hydration Moisturiser, $65
Sensitive skin is often dry, too. This rich cream contains organic grape water, plenty of hyaluronic acid, and creamy organic shea butter. It’s ideal for both day and night and is famous for relieving tight, dry, itchy, sensitive skin.
Other key ingredients
Together, vitamin E, niacinamide, and multiple forms of hyaluronic acid help support the skin barrier and maintain hydration, keeping skin strong and plump. “Gallic acid helps defend the skin against daily oxidative stress, while vitamin E supports barrier function and helps reduce irritation by stabilising the skin’s lipid layer,” says Westbay. “When antioxidants are paired with ingredients that support the barrier, you can improve concerns like dullness, pore appearance and fine lines while still respecting the needs of sensitive skin,” says Westbay. Who adds, “That combination of antioxidant protection and barrier support is really key. It allows patients with sensitive skin to see results while keeping their skin calm and comfortable.”
Cerave facial moisturising lotion pm, $30
With three essential ceramides to nourish the skin, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide, this hard-working, affordable moisture boost also serves as a protective barrier for sensitive skin. Niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier, balance oil production, and brighten an uneven skin tone. But here’s the kicker with this cream: The MVE (multi-vesicular emulsion) patented controlled-release delivery system delivers a steady stream of moisture throughout the night without any greasy residue.
Here’s the ingredients you need in your daily routine.