Skin-calming (especially great for rosacea sufferers), ideal for inflammatory acne, skin-balancing and skin-brightening. Editor Trudi Brewer shares why azelaic acid should be on your skincare ingredient radar.
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What is azelaic acid?
According to Dr. Sam Bunting, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Dr. Sam’s skincare, azelaic acid is “A naturally occurring byproduct of yeast that lives on all our skins. Specifically, it’s a dicarboxylic acid and can also be found in grains like barley.”
What are the skin benefits of azelaic acid?
Most well-known acids work to exfoliate, like glycolic and salicylic acid, or as I mentioned earlier, hyaluronic, that moisture magnet that helps hydrate the skin. Azelaic acid is renowned for its calming benefits. “It reduces inflammation in the skin by its effect on the activity of Toll-like receptors, which sense our environment for danger, helping activate our skin’s defences,” explains Dr. Bunting. “In redness-prone skin, these sensors are turned up too high and azelaic acid helps bring them back under control.” That is not all: azelaic acid is also an antibacterial ingredient, which, according to Dr. Bunting, “Reduces the tendency for our skin cells to clog up our pores.” It is also known as a ‘tyrosinase inhibitor’, which can reduce the skin’s inclination for developing hyperpigmentation, a welcome benefit for anyone dealing with brown spots or melasma.
Who should try azelaic acid?
Dr. Bunting recommends azelaic acid products to almost everyone: “From redness and blocked pores to breakouts and uneven skin tone, it’s incredibly versatile,” she says. “It also partners well with other actives – a real team player!" So why has this brilliant ingredient been widely overlooked in favour of salicylic acid and retinol? According to Dr. Bunting, the fact that it’s tricky to formulate generally puts manufacturers off adding it to cosmetics. “It sits in suspension and can easily feel gritty on application so that many brands won’t undertake the endeavour.” Lately, some forward-thinking brands are embracing the formulation challenges and delivering azelaic acid skincare that genuinely benefits skin that suffers from redness, dark spots and breakouts. She adds, “Know the percentage of azelaic acid in the product and gradually build up to your limit - products range from five per cent and go up to 20 per cent (on prescription).” So, who can’t use this wonder ingredient? "Occasionally, someone with sensitive skin will find azelaic acid hard to tolerate, but it’s extremely rare – we use it with rosacea, after all,” says Dr. Bunting. Who adds, “It’s also one of the few ingredients safe in pregnancy or for breastfeeding mums.”
The products stacked with azelaic acid
Dr. Sam's Flawless Brightly Serum, $98.
With ten per cent azelaic acid and skin strengthening and pore-clearing niacinamide orn vitamin B3, this fast-absorbing serum treats skin flares up, breakouts and uneven skin tone. Use a half a pump, every other day.
Medik8 Blemish SOS, $79.
This swift-acting gel is ideal for treating those unexpected blemishes. Formulated with azelaic acid alongside niacinamide and salicylic acid, it'll take the heat out of an angry blemish and restore order within the skin without upsetting your skin barrier.
OLE HENRIKSEN Banana Bright Face Primer, $64,
A dual-purpose skin treatment and skin primer all-in-one. Expect all the benefits of a hard-working serum, thanks to the active ingredients like azelaic acid, mixed with glycerin, vitamin C and vitamin E, and the banana-inspired gold pigments that help to give your complexion a summertime-glow. Wear alone or under makeup daily.
Niod RE: Pigment, $69.
As light as water but potent like a serum, this game-changer visibly brightens pigmentation from sun damage or post-acne scarring. Use it consistently and be patient - it takes years to see dark spots from UV damage, so getting rid of them doesn’t happen overnight.
Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Liquid Peel, $55.
It is ideal for sensitive skin suffering from breakouts at the same time. This potent skin-clarifier works overtime to eliminate congestion and resurface those lingering acne scars. The azelaic acid is the calming counter to the hefty oil-dissolving acids, meaning you get brighter, more even skin without redness and irritation.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, $18.
This brightening moisturiser was made to help uneven, blemish-prone skin. With a high concentration of azelaic acid (ten per cent), this antioxidant extracted from grains visibly improves the skin texture, gently enough to use daily. It’s also free from oil, silicone, and alcohol.
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