It’s not just a 10-step routine or a trend; K-beauty is a skincare philosophy deeply rooted in tradition. The practice os centuries of time-honoured rituals, and natural ingredients help promote healthy, radiant skin, with skincare innovations that are results-driven. If you’re K-curious, editor Trudi Brewer shares the ingredients and brands to look out for.
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From rice water to salmon extract, featherlight SPFs, nourishing ceramides, Korean skincare is more than pretty packaging. It’s on a mission to demystify ingredients and be accessible to every woman with any skin concern, at affordable prices. Its focus is to nourish the skin and protect its delicate microbiome rather than stripping it to offer fast results that often create sensitivities. It’s estimated that Korean skincare formulators are a decade ahead of Western chemists in terms of beauty innovation and ingredient efficacy. A good example of this is polynucleotide injections (better known as the salmon sperm injectable or facial), which they launched in Korea in 2014. In contrast, they became popular in the UK in 2024. And while that may sound odd, at the core of Korean beauty is our skin’s barrier. Nourishing and ensuring that it is not compromised, prevents irritation and promotes long-term skin health. In contrast, Western skincare has favoured more aggressive products like exfoliants or retinoids to offer rapid results, compromising that precious skin’s barrier. Here are the most common ingredients used in Korean skincare, and a better understanding of what to shop for..
KEY K-bEAUTY INGREDIENTS
Tranexamic Acid
With an impressive ability to reduce dark spots and help even skin tone, as a drug, it is used to control bleeding in trauma patients or in women who suffer from heavy periods. But when taken orally, patients saw an improvement in patches of hyperpigmentation. It’s a popular K-beauty ingredient, helpful with melasma and sunspots. The best part is that it has fewer side effects and a gentler impact on the skin than most retinol formulas. It works differently from traditional anti-pigment agents by calming inflammation and disrupting the pathways that trigger melanocyte activity, the process that the skin is responsible for producing melanin, which leads to dark spots.
PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide)
Derived from salmon DNA, it’s a fast-growing regenerative compound that enhances tissue repair and collagen synthesis. While in Korea it’s often used in injectables, there is a stack of evidence that shows that PDRN stimulates and strengthens skin elasticity. Improving skin quality for anyone suffering from breakouts to sensitivities, its calming power is ideal post-procedures like skin peels and laser.
Bakuchiol
This plant-derived ingredient is well respected among chemists and skincare formulators as a gentler alternative to retinol. Bakuchiol, which is derived from the Psoralea Corylifolia plant, or 'babchi' plant, is used in Indian and Chinese traditional medicine. It offers the same skin renewal benefits as vitamin A or retinol but without those sensitising side effects. It is found in many Korean skincare formulas, is rich in antioxidants, has anti-inflammatory properties, and helps blur pigmentation and fine lines without peeling the skin like retinoids can. Another bonus, bakuchiol formulas are also suitable for pregnant people, whereas retinol is not.
Centella Asiatica
Showing up in mainstream skincare, and for good reason. Centella asiatica (also known as cica) is famous for its skin-healing properties, which are ideal for anyone with irritated, sensitive, or inflamed skin. One of the components of cica is madecassosides, which have potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, soothing the skin barrier. Often recommended for post-procedure skin, a must-have if your skin is sensitive, reactive or in need of TLC during seasonal changes.
Peptides
Collagen-boosting peptides are short chains of amino acids that play an essential role in skin structure and function. They signal the skin to produce more collagen, improve elasticity, and strengthen the barrier. But Korean brands use them in innovative combinations, often with ceramides and humectants, like hyaluronic acid, which will enhance both the skin structure and boost hydration. Over time, they reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Korean peptide-infused formulas have been shown to work fast.
Ceramides
These are naturally occurring lipids, essential for preventing moisture loss. Ceramides play an integral part in the skin barrier strength and are essential for anyone with sensitive or dry skin. Using a ceramide-rich skincare formula will calm inflamed skin and benefit conditions like rosacea or eczema.
Snail Mucin
It might sound a bit ‘odd’, but this ingredient does deliver results. A K-beauty hero for its ability to hydrate, repair and smooth the skin, Snail mucin is the clear mucus produced by garden snails. Although primarily composed of water, it’s also packed with hyaluronic acid, antimicrobial peptides, glycolic acid, elastin, collagen, allantoin, and various other skin-loving enzymes. It has been used in traditional medicines for centuries due to its potent antibacterial and healing properties. It can be found in K-Beauty brands like ANUA, COSRX, Beauty of Joseon, and Holika Holika.
Rice Water
Rice water is typically made by either soaking or boiling rice in water, then separating the liquid from the rice grains. It is full of vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants. In cosmetics, water brightens, softens and evens out skin tone, while boosting moisture in the skin. A great one to try if you want that lit-from-within glow.
Green Tea
A soothing bee by-product that helps calm redness, boost hydration and support skin regeneration. Ideal for skin that’s prone to breakouts or irritation.
Beta Glucan & Panthenol
Two ultra-gentle ingredients that hydrate deeply and support your barrier. Great for layering under actives or using as part of a simplified, skin-first routine.
K-BEAUTY BRANDS WE RATE
Laneige
This cult beauty brand is all about hydration and is famous for its Lip Sleeping Mask, $34 in a range of fruity flavours, and the Water Sleeping Mask, $55. Both work wonders overnight to help lock in moisture and restore your glow while you sleep. If you’re new to K-beauty, this is a great brand to start with - but one warning: You will be hooked - real quick.
It’s available at Sephora and online at Hikoco.
Anua
Stacked with calming, minimal-ingredient formulas. It’s famous for its Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner, $38, which feels like cooling water but works like a skin treatment to calm stressed skin instantly. Just as impressive: the Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum, $49. This serum tackles redness, while our favourite 7 Rice Ceramide Hydrating Barrier Serum, $44, is stacked with the brand's RICERA 7+, a blend of seven types of rice extracts, ceramides, arbutin, niacinamide and zinc to brighten and hydrate dull skin. Finally, if you are looking for a mask to give skin that red carpet glow, the Rice 70 Glow Collagen Mask, $36, four in a pack, is perfect for any special moment, when you want to glow. Available at Hikoco.
Tocobo
This K-Beauty brand will inject some fun into your skincare routine. Not just the cute pastel colours, it’s vegan skin-first and makeup formulas, but also the ingredient line-up, which promotes skin brightening and skin protection. Case in point with their top-selling The Cotton Soft Sun Stick SPF50, $30, a cult favourite. The easy-to-reapply, non-greasy stick formula is ideal for on-the-go protection. Available at Hikoco.
Beauty Of Joseon
Inspired by traditional Korean medicine, this brand combines time-honoured practices with brilliant ingredients whipped into modern formulas. The Glow Replenishing Rice Milk, $31, is a fan favourite for hydrating dull, unbalanced skin, boosting moisture levels to give comfort all day long. The Relief Sun SPF50, $31, has gone viral thanks to its invisible finish, great SPF protection, and featherlight feel. Available at Hikoco.
Medicube
Backed by dermatologists, Medicube is also a viral sensation and for good reason. It’s famous for its at-home devices if you’re into gadgets that deliver instant results. Medicube’s Age-R Booster Pro, $880, is a serious game-changer. While its high-tech clinical skincare addresses almost every skin concern. If you want a luxe-y, super hydrating mask, the Collagen Night Wrapping Mask, $67, gives skin an enviable glow. Apply this to clean skin, let it dry for 15 minutes, then go to sleep. Peel the mask or rinse off the next morning. Available at Hikoco.
Heveblue
Infused with salmon PDRN, soothing centella, and superfood extracts, the Salmon Caring Centella Bubble Cleanser, $54, enjoys a cult status for anyone with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Why it’s low-pH (5.5 kind on skin), cleanser creates rich, ultra-fine bubbles to remove makeup and clean skin pores while maintaining the skin’s moisture barrier, the most crucial consideration when shopping for a cleanser. It’s an ultra-gentle, refreshing cleanse without any tightness. Available at Hikoco.
Innisfree
It’s a well-recognisable K-beauty brand, Innisfree, which offers natural, ingredient-led skincare, namely green tea, at very accessible prices. The Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Cream, $47, is a hydration hero, while the Volcanic Pore Clearing Clay Mask, $31, tackles congestion without drying the skin out. One of our faves is the No-Sebum Blur Primer, $26. The natural mint and earth-derived minerals manage the oil and moisture levels in the skin, while green persimmon extracts tighten the look of open pores. Available at Hikoco.
Why is Korean beauty so good?