Winter skin WOF

Flushed cheeks, itchy, dry skin or cracked lips? Welcome to the effects of winter. Once the temperature drops, you may notice some of these unwanted changes in your skin, and a compromised skin barrier is the culprit. Editor Trudi Brewer gets expert advice on how skin undergoes a biological change in winter.

If you think of skin in the same way you do your wardrobe, it needs to adapt to the different seasons. Cold temperatures, low humidity, and indoor heating can compromise the skin's barrier, that protective layer that maintains balance and hydration. So, the products that once served your skin well enough in summer (without a jacket) may no longer meet your complexion's needs in winter. For beauty maximalists, wintertime presents an opportunity to indulge in hydrating corrective serums and skin-strengthening treatments to restore the fragile barrier. Skin expert and technical trainer at Probeauty, Sharon Sutherland (SS), shares her winter WOF advice with a trilogy of skincare solutions: there is a skin solution for every concern. Read on to learn more.

Probeauty, skin expert, Sharon Sutherland

Is there a difference between summer and winter skincare needs?

Yes, definitely. Once the temperature drops, as a defence mechanism, our skin increases the thickness of the top layer to prevent water loss during dry conditions. Additionally, when exposed to extreme cold temperatures, the blood vessels in our skin can constrict, leading to a decrease in the skin's oxygenation. Most skins need a lipid-based moisturiser and hydrating serums to combat.

O COSMEDICS Hydra Plus Sleep-In Mask, $89

The concept of beauty sleep is not a myth. If you want to supercharge those eight hours for even more radiant skin, we're obsessed with this sleeping mask. Boosted by water-soluble hyaluronic acid and the secret V8 Peptide Complex, the brand is famous for. Niacinamide, which strengthens the skin, and Shea butter, which is so luxuriously hydrating.

Use this mask up to three times a week.

NEUROCOSMEDICS by GINGER&ME Super Vitamin C, $119

Vitamin C is a game-changer for dull, ageing skin, and this serum is stacked with a water-soluble form of it. Enhanced by an antioxidant powerhouse of vitamins B3, B5, B6, and E, as well as Kakadu plum extract, each offering barrier repair and skin firming, strengthening benefits. Ferulic acid is also a powerful antioxidant, neutralising free radical damage and visible pigment. Use morning and night before moisturising.

How do we need to alter our daily routine for winter temperatures?

Yes, with every change of season, we should alter our skincare. Colder months mean more protection against outdoor cold and indoor heating. The cold air also holds less moisture and indoor heating can exacerbate dryness, flakiness, sensitivity, and dehydration. Our skin needs an ABC combination of ingredients; think of this as skincare’s equivalent of a green juice packed with the essentials your skin can’t thrive without. A is for vitamin A, also known as retinol in many forms, the ultimate skin smoother, line softener, and texture refiner. B is for vitamin B, the most common and effective niacinamide, the barrier-strengthening, pore-refining superhero. And then there's vitamin C, which brightens the skin; it's a firming powerhouse that also delivers antioxidant protection. Finally, don't forget an SPF. If you are using retinol in your skincare to boost clarity, then SPF is the bodyguard that ensures all your hard work doesn’t go to waste. Even if it's cloudy and rainy, UVA (ageing rays) are present all year round; an SPF will help reduce hyperpigmentation and fine lines, and help avoid worsening skin issues, such as melasma or rosacea.

O COSMEDICS O-Biotics Retinoic Oil, $172

The most important tip when using any product that contains vitamin A is to apply it to a clean, dry face. While this oil is active, it serves as a non-irritating skin treatment that boosts rejuvenation, making winter the ideal time to incorporate it into your routine. Use it at night and don’t forget to apply it to the neck and décolletage area, then massage it in until fully absorbed.

INSKIN.CO Vitamin C Serum,$69

Fortified with 20 per cent highly stable water- and oil-soluble vitamin C, this formula boosts collagen production, brightens dull skin, and helps mitigate stubborn sun damage. Add Kakadu and Davidson's Plum extracts for their anti-inflammatory benefits, and this could be your go-to serum, morning and night. Apply to freshly cleansed skin.

What ingredients can we look for in skincare to help combat dryness?

First, hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it can absorb and retain water like a sponge, holding around 1000 times its weight in moisture, allowing your skin to stay hydrated. Aloe vera has soothing, hydrating properties, which help mitigate irritation. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is renowned for its ability to strengthen the skin's barrier, which, when robust, prevents the skin from losing moisture. Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids (or fats) in our skin, and once applied, they help maintain that protective barrier, further preventing moisture loss. Essential fatty acids, such as those found in Shea butter, jojoba, and avocado oils, not only nourish the skin but also help keep the skin barrier intact. Additionally, glucose and glycerin also play a role in keeping skin hydrated. Great skin isn’t a lucky accident; it’s the result of consistent care.

Do you need to introduce a serum if you don't use one?

Yes. Serums have more intense or concentrated ingredients that target specific skin conditions and quickly absorb into the skin. Serums will be the hardest-working product in your routine, so if you are trying to decide where to spend your money, invest in a skin serum. Addressing skin issues should be your top priority in winter.

INSKIN.CO Vitamin D & B5 Serum, $69

To combat the lack of sun and harsh cold, the addition of d-panthenol, a form of pro-vitamin B5, reduces redness and supports skin healing. At the same time, Tremella mushroom extract is a rich source of vitamin D, also known as the sunshine vitamin. Add hyaluronic acid, rosemary and bilberry fruit extract, and your skin is in for an energy boost. Use day and night before moisturiser.

O COSMEDICS B12 Smart Serum, $185

Pricy but potent. This serum was created for compromised skin, aka skin that is affected by seasonal change. The ingredient lineup is impressive, antioxidant workhorses. First, the V8 Peptide Complex, niacinamide, vitamin B12, and E, to reduce redness and irritation, a probiotic, as well as moisture-boosting ceramides and soothing botanicals. Use am and pm.

What about redness? How do you calm this skin issue?

Often, an indication that the skin's barrier function is impaired, treating the skin with strengthening skincare and treatments can help soothe and calm it. Internal supplements can help alleviate inflammation and improve impaired barrier function. Additionally, try to avoid daily triggers that irritate the skin, such as spicy foods, alcohol, and hot showers or baths. A zinc-based SPF not only protects the skin but also helps reduce inflammation.

O COSMEDICS Comfort Cream, $155

As the name suggests, this is your everything cream to combat the effects of winter. Nourishing and healing, suitable for all skin types, thanks to a formula of precious oils, including rosehip, Inca, and Inchi oils. Boosted by essential fatty acids (our skin loves), along with a host of super antioxidants and hyaluronic acid. It’s luxuriously comforting to slather on day or night.

Suntegrity 5-In-1 Tinted Sunscreen Moisturiser SPF 30, $99

An all-in-one BB cream, primer and moisturiser, that is tinted. With plant extracts, aloe vera, coconut, jojoba seed, sunflower, and pomegranate seed oils, and green tea extract. However, here's the kicker: it contains 20 per cent zinc oxide to reflect UV rays. There are four blendable shades.

What about sensitive skin, and how can you alleviate this?

Your skin may feel tight and dry, developing redness, irritation, and flakiness, and may become sensitive to hot and cold temperatures. Hormonal changes can also cause the skin to become sensitive. The first rule is to soothe, calm, and balance both internal and external. Increasing your omega-3 intake in your diet helps reduce inflammation, as does zinc. A brilliant antioxidant, it protects skin cells from damage and contributes to a healthier skin barrier. This can help with acne and rosacea, regulate oil production, and boost collagen synthesis. Another ingredient making an appearance in skincare formulas is Centella Asiatica. An edible herb used in traditional Asian medicine for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.

What about internal wellness? Does this help with skin wellness?

If the ecosystem or microbiome in our gut is unbalanced, our skin will show signs of sensitivity, breakouts, and dryness. Often referred to as 'sister organs' due to their bidirectional communication, known as the gut-skin axis. Your gut can have a significant impact on your skin and vice versa. When your digestive system is impaired, it can trigger or exacerbate skin conditions such as acne, eczema, or rosacea.

OCOSMEDICS EFA Max Complex, $69

The benefits of an antioxidant diet are evident on the skin. These capsules are crammed with essential fatty acids (skin loves these) in a range of oils. Including fish, squalene, shark liver, cod liver, evening primrose, flaxseed and a blend of vegetable oils, all that crams your diet with vitamins A, D & E.
Take one to two capsules.

KIKI Health Alkaline Infusion Powder, $25

Consider this your beauty elixir. It’s a dose of vitamin C (extracted from lemon and Acerola cherry), with alkalising minerals including calcium, magnesium and potassium, which have a neutralising effect on the body. A daily dose benefits the gut and its sister organ, the skin.

What about in-clinic treatments; what are the best options in winter?

Regular, nourishing, and hydrating wellness treatments work holistically on the mind, body, and soul. However, for brightening the skin and reducing the appearance of sun damage, skin peels that incorporate enzyme exfoliation combined with dermaplaning are beneficial. Combination therapies, such as microneedling with exosomes and L.E.D. light therapy, work in tandem to promote skin healing and rejuvenation in both clinical and at-home settings.