Fun fact: How you apply your sunscreen is almost as important as wearing it every day. The latest conversation around sunscreen on TikTok is SPF cocktailing. While it may be tempting, beauty experts warn it’s not a trend to follow. Read on to learn more, says editor Trudi Brewer.
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What is SPF Cocktailing?
SPF cocktailing is mixing sunscreens with other skincare and makeup products. The goal: Eliminate that white cast that certain sunscreens leave on the skin. However, if you think it boosts the sun protection efficacy of all the other products you apply - experts are not convinced. The best way to reduce that white cast is to use a lightweight SPF moisturiser before a sunscreen; this will help the sunscreen absorb into the skin and reduce that white glow.
Should You Mix Your Makeup With Your Sunscreen?
Mixing a few pumps of sunscreen with other serums and makeup products, like concealers and foundations (hence the reference to cocktailing), does cut down the steps in your morning routine. However, there is a high chance that you need to use more SPF to protect your skin. "For sunscreen to protect us from skin cancer and photo-ageing, apply liberally and adequately to ensure it covers all areas of exposed skin," says Dr Dennis Gross, a practising dermatologist, former skin cancer researcher, and co-founder of Dr Dennis Gross Skincare. "When you mix sunscreen with makeup, there is a high chance that you aren't using enough SPF to effectively protect your skin, leaving you vulnerable to sun-related skin damage and burning.” Finally, it's important to note that most SPF makeup products are formulated with less-than-the-recommended sunscreen (a dessert spoonful), and no one does that, right? So, to make sure your skin is protected, apply your usual sunscreen first and then your SPF-infused makeup over the top.
Naked Sundays SPF50+ Collagen Glow 100% Mineral Perfecting Priming Lotion, from $28.
High SPF protection in a 100 per cent mineral (physical) sunscreen formula. But it’s also a four-in-one SPF. A primer, moisturiser, SPF, and collagen-boosting ingredients, all in one formula. This is one screen we have on rotation.
The more SPF-laced products you layer on, the better the protection
The protection you get when layering SPF products such as primer, moisturizer, sunscreen, and foundation is not accumulative, says Dr Caroline Robinson, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Tone Dermatology. “SPF cocktailing doesn’t help block more rays. If you layer three products with SPF 30, it’s the same as applying one layer of SPF 30 sunscreen.” She adds, “Also, some of us tend to use makeup more sparingly and skip certain areas like the ears and chest,” She doesn’t recommend relying on makeup for sun protection alone. Layering, your SPF won’t be greater than the highest individual SPF you use. “The most important thing to remember when layering,” she explains, “One product should provide you with adequate protection independent of the other layers you apply.”
Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+, $25
We discovered this SPF in Japan years ago, and it’s always been a keeper. It leaves no white cast on the skin and offers an excellent SPF 50+ rating. The gel/cream consistency instantly cools the skin and absorbs in seconds. It leaves skin feeling slightly moist but not oily or shiny. It also plays nice with any makeup you apply on top.
What are the Alternatives to SPF Cocktailing?
Instead of mixing your products, Dr. David Kim, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology, suggests using makeup products already formulated with sunscreen. "When you mix sunscreen with another product, whether it's makeup, moisturiser, or a serum, it doesn't get evenly distributed because it gets buried underneath the other products you've already applied." Another good reason to apply SPF every two hours, especially if you are poolside or at the beach. Dr Kim recommends using a sheer SPF tint or powder to reapply if you're already wearing makeup.
Jane Iredale Amazing Base Loose Mineral Powder Refillable Brush SPF 20, $119.
A go-to for your handbag, this four-in-one foundation, concealer, powder and SPF offers broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sun protection and it’s water-resistant. As a foundation, it offers a sheer to medium cover, masking redness and fine lines. But its real charm is how it buffs over any SPF or makeup, leaving skin well protected with a soft-focus effect. There are 20 shades.
The Takehome
While it may be a beauty buzz on TikTok, mixing makeup with sunscreen isn't a good idea, according to dermatologist Dr Marko Lens, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon. He believes, “Everyone should wear sunscreen as intended, per the ingredient label, and layer on makeup once the SPF fully absorbs into the skin. In an era when we have a steep increase of skin cancer all around the world, as a skin cancer specialist, I think it is irresponsible to recommend sunscreen cocktailing," he says.
Here’s how to keep your hair and skin perfectly balanced.