Hyaluronic acid - hero or hoax?

It's a buzz-in-beauty right now, hyaluronic acid, (HA), but do you know what it does for the skin?
Editor Trudi Brewer fills us in on how this hero-ingredient hydrates from the inside out and the new skincare packed with it.

 
 

Editor Trudi Brewer shares what HA can do for your skin on TV3’s The Cafe

Trudi wears the Krystal Blouse from Workshop

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid,( also known as sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronan), is a polysaccharide that can attract up to 1000 times its weight in water that our bodies naturally produce. A clear, gooey substance that lubricates our joints keep muscles supple, and it’s present in our skin, connective tissue, and the eyes. 

 

Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Meltaway Cleanser, $53.

Vegan, and oil-free, this cleanser can be used with or without water so that you can cleanse on-the-go. Suitable for all skin types, it’s rich in HA, as well as sea grapes, kiwi, and aloe to cleanse and nourish at the same time.

Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Meltaway Cleanser, $53.

Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Meltaway Cleanser, $53.

How does it benefit your skin?

Half of the hyaluronic acid in your body is present in your skin. Its primary function is to retain moisture, essentially hyaluronic acid brings water to the skin, which is why it’s often called a moisture magnet. Unfortunately, asyou age, by your 50’s your skin has lost half of the HA it had at age 20. Add daily environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution; and the skin loses its capacity to produce its HA, which leads to dry skin, thinning skin with fine lines and wrinkles.

Adashiko Collagen Hydra + Gold Serum, $120.

Adashiko Collagen Hydra + Gold Serum, $120.

 

Adashiko Collagen Hydra + Gold Serum, $120.

The latest serum to join this collagen-based brand is packed with marine peptide collagen, Japanese gold leaf and the tiny molecular size of hyaluronic acid, so the formula can absorb deep into the skin. That moisture magnet is made even more effective with the addition of jojoba seed oil, and the skin-loving blend of vitamin C and E.

Does it work?

Cosmetic chemists and scientists have had a long-term love affair with hyaluronic acid. Why? It works, and plenty of scientific evidence proves its efficacy. Not only does it attract and bind water to hydrate the skin, but it can also stimulate collagen production. However, when it comes to HA, size matters when used as an ingredient in cosmetics. The size varies from between 50 to 1,000 daltons, with 130 being the best of most easily absorbed by the skin. Not only is HA helpful in cosmetics, but it's also brilliant as a skin filler, administered by an injection of both Restylane and Juvéderm, it can be placed above the cheekbone and in the hollows of the temples to plump and lift the face, as well as smoothing the look of etched-in deep wrinkles.

 

Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum, $162.

Each little capsule is brimming with hyaluronic acid, that absorbs faster and deeper into the skin. Nourishing ceramides, including sunflower, olive, lecithin, and avocado oils, help lock the moisture into the skin and keep irritants out, while ginger extract reduces inflammation and improves blood circulation. Each capsule offers a silky gel-like texture that makes this serum ideal under makeup or before bed.

Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum, $162.

Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum, $162.

How to get to most from your hyaluronic acid-laced skincare?

Damp skin will accept moisture easier than dry skin. Think of your complexion like a desert: When it finally rains, water will run right off the soil; but after a few days of rain, the wet soil draws water deep into the ground. It’s the same for the skin. HA works best when formulated with nourishing ingredients such as oils including olive oil, jojoba, and sunflower seed oils, which form a barrier on the skin to help seal the moisture deep in the skin.

Mario Badescu Hyaluronic Dew Cream, $46.

Mario Badescu Hyaluronic Dew Cream, $46.

 

Mario Badescu Hyaluronic Dew Cream, $46.

The two weights of HA in this little pot of gel-like cream hydrate the skin's surface, and also absorb quickly to hydrate deep down in the skin. The formula is alcohol and oil-free and contains camellia leaf, and cucumber extracts as well. Our only criticism is that the 42-gram pot is not big enough - it's so divine and will leave you wanting more. 

What skin types can benefit from using HA?

It's one skincare ingredient that will benefit any skin type. Even those with oily skins can become dehydrated and need moisture, which is where HA is ideal. However, it depends on what it is formulated alongside the and sensitive skins often react to fragrance, and alcohol - always read the labels on your cosmetics if you have sensitive skin. 

 

Avène DermAbsolu Comforting Night Balm, $80.

The unique blend of anti-ageing actives and the melt-on-contact balm texture is perfect for ageing, sensitive skin. Packed with HA, and vanilla polyphenols to boost the natural hyaluronic acid in your skin, as well as a Babchi plant, (used in Chinese medicine), the natural alternative to retinol (vitamin A). This balm speeds up skin cell turnover, which boosts collagen growth while leaving your skin feeling hydrated and smooth. We also love the airless pump jar; it’s a great travel-friendly option.

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