Winter is the perfect reset for correcting UV-damaged skin, fine lines, and dullness. Editor Trudi Brewer shares a prescription-only treatment, and dermatologist advice on a skin cream that can rejuvenate your complexion with an ingredient that is the gold standard in anti-ageing. Read on to learn more.
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Our skin would be perfect if we lived in a glass bubble, shielded from the sun and wind, but that’s not realistic and is never going to happen. Our rugged climate and New Zealand’s UV levels are among the highest in the world. With sustained long-term environmental damage comes photoageing, or dark spots that are tricky to budge at any age.
Before I dive into a possible solution, understanding how the sun or UV radiation is the number one enemy to our skin is the place to start. The sun emits UVA (ageing rays) and UVB (burning rays), each affecting the skin in different ways. UVB rays are responsible for sunburn and account for around five per cent of total UV radiation, causing direct DNA damage to skin cells. But UVA rays account for around 95 per cent of daily UV exposure.
They penetrate deep into the skin, beyond the surface where our collagen and elastin are produced, which is the structure or cushion of our complexion that keeps skin firm and looking youthful.
But here is the kicker: Unlike UVB, UVA rays are present all year round, even during winter. They can penetrate cloud cover and glass, and are the primary driver of long-term photoageing.
So, back to the visible effects of photoageing and how we can correct dark spots, fine lines, loss of firmness and an uneven skin texture? ReTrieve is an option. A prescription-only topical cream that contains tretinoin, a medical-grade form of vitamin A. To learn how it works in the skin, Dr Lisa Connelly from iDerm explains.
With over 20 years of specialist dermatology experience, Dr Lisa Connelly from iDerm in New Plymouth, Taranaki, created a clinic built on one belief: Great dermatology goes deeper than the surface. “We take the time to understand your skin, your history, and your goals, so we can deliver care that actually works.” Here are Dr Connelly’s thoughts on ReTrieve as a skin rejuvenator.
Dr Lisa Connelly from iDerm in Taranaki
What is ReTrieve?
ReTrieve is a topical cream containing a synthetic form of vitamin A, the main ingredient is tretinoin 0.05 per cent or tretinoic acid.
What is vitamin A?
I think of these compounds as being on a spectrum from mild to potent. Retinol is the mildest form of vitamin A, followed by retinaldehyde (medium potency), and, at the other end, tretinoin (most potent in New Zealand). Stronger forms of topical retinoids are available overseas, but here in New Zealand, retinol and retinaldehyde formulas are commonly found in over-the-counter anti-ageing products.
Why is ReTrieve a prescription-only medicine?
It’s a prescription-only medication because of safety concerns and the need for medical supervision with its use. It can cause significant skin irritation if not used correctly. The most common symptoms are severe dry skin (xerosis), redness, swelling, peeling, and stinging and burning. This medication should not be used during pregnancy as birth defects have been associated with its use. Lastly, it increases a patient’s sun sensitivity, making sunburn more likely with shorter UV exposure.
How can this cream benefit the skin?
ReTrieve is the most effective topical acne treatment. It not only treats comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and acne papules but, with long-term use, also prevents the development of acne lesions. Additional effects include:
Prevention of collagen degradation in response to UV exposure
Promotion of collagen synthesis
Improvement of wrinkles, fine and coarse
Improvement of mottled pigmentation.
Who can use ReTrieve?
Pre-adolescent, adolescent, and adult patients with acne. Adults with fine lines and wrinkles who want to improve their skin texture, improve collagen production and reduce the appearance of superficial scars. Patients with eczema and rosacea should exercise extreme caution when using ReTrieve, as it can exacerbate their skin conditions. I advise that such patients use ReTrieve only under the supervision and direction of a dermatologist.
How much and how often should you apply ReTrieve?
After cleansing the skin, it is often recommended to wait until it is completely dry before applying ReTrieve to prevent irritation. Apply a pea-sized amount in a thin layer; aim to use it nightly for best results. Either as a short contact for several minutes and then wash off, or leave it on overnight.
What results can you expect after a few months of regular use?
Reduced congestion of blackheads and whiteheads, reduction of fine lines, and more supple skin with improved collagen production. Results will take time; this is not an overnight effect.
Are there any downsides to using ReTrieve?
The irritation is likely the biggest downside, so starting slowly and allowing your skin to acclimate to the product is the best approach. The other skincare you use matters. Using gentle hydrating skincare products is essential to support the skin’s tolerance to ReTrieve.
Why is using SPF so important while using ReTrieve?
ReTrieve increases your sun sensitivity by exfoliating the most superficial layer of your skin. For this reason, SPF 50+ is recommended for daily use with ReTrieve. Reapplication is also essential if you are spending more time outdoors, swimming, or sweating excessively. Also, sunscreen is only one part of the sun-protection arsenal; you should seek shade, wear a wide-brimmed hat, and round, oversized sunglasses that protect your eyes and surrounding skin.
What's your best tip when using ReTrieve?
Introduce the product slowly as directed, support your skin barrier with gentle, hydrating skin care, and be sun-smart. Your future skin will thank you.
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