If our hair is our crowning glory, then the longer it is, the older it is, says editor Trudi Brewer.
Who adds: ageing hair is not just grey, and while it’s often slower to notice than the effects ageing has on our skin, there are some clever tips to keep your locks youthful-looking and shiny for life.
Read in to learn more.
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Changes in Texture
The first thing you notice as hair ages is its texture: increased frizz, less curl definition or hair that suddenly feels harder to style and hold its shape. Trichologist and hairstylist Gretchen Friese notes that, over time, grey hair often becomes coarser or more wiry. Additionally, “Our scalp also tends to make less sebum as we get older, and that can lead to dry hair that is prone to flyaways,” says Friese.
Hormonal fluctuations also affect hair. Pregnancy can benefit the hair; you often notice that your natural hair is thicker and shinier. This is caused by the increased levels of estrogen (female hormone) and greater blood circulation that naturally occur when you are pregnant. Once you give birth, those estrogen levels drop again and can cause sudden and significant postpartum dry, frizzy locks and hair loss. Try adding moisture to the hair with a conditioner rich in vitamins B and E and plant oils. Your day-to-day routines also affect hair health. If you’re noticing thinning toward the ends of your natural hair instead of at the roots, heat could be the culprit. Using flat irons on our hair causes dryness and brittleness. Using excessive heat on your hair also frequently results in loss of curl or volume, and frizz. Luckily, this is easily preventable. Reduce heat styling and use heat protectants when you do use heat on your natural hair.
ghd speed Hair dryer, $645
Created to speed up your blow-dry time without damaging your hair. First, there are five heat and speed settings designed to suit any hair type. It's quiet, compact, and lightweight to hold, and its signature is the clever, ultra-fast ghd halo dual-airflow technology. So what does that mean? This means a cool outer stream of air wraps around the hot air, protecting your scalp from heat and ensuring a cooler, more comfortable, yet fast blow-drying experience. Yes, it shortens your blow-dry time, reduces frizz, and prevents heat damage (which causes frizz). There are five attachments sold separately to smooth or encourage natural curl. There is a cold-blast button that finally seals in your style. It’s an investment in your hair, for sure, but it's worth every cent if you want to achieve a professional blowout every time.
Dullness
Frizzy, limp, dull hair is often a sign that the hair’s cuticle is more vulnerable and hair will hold less moisture. These are both telltale signs of ageing hair. They are also the first signs of greying. Grey hair is a gradual stage; hair rarely shifts from its natural colour to white overnight. Instead, it undergoes depigmentation, which is why hair may appear less vibrant or begin to show white hairs as early as the late 20s to early 30s. To boost shine, look for products with plant oils, rich in vitamin E, proteins and minerals.
Davroe Chroma Clear Gloss Treatment, $40
A gloss-giving hair treatment that has the same effect as a semi-permanent colour (without adding colour) by improving the hair’s condition and reducing the risk of hair breakage. Treat this like your conditioner to nourish the hair, thanks to an impressive ingredient line-up of natural plant and flower extracts. Including jojoba, hydrolysed quinoa, and olive leaf extract, as well as the brand’s unique colour protect complex – gentle colour protection for hair and scalp. But here is the kicker - it delivers the most amazing shine every time you use it.
Dry, Sensitive Scalp
Ageing hair often leads to a dry, tight, sensitive scalp. “The scalp ages just like facial skin, and when the scalp barrier and circulation change over time, it directly impacts how well the follicle can produce strong, healthy hair,” says trichologist Aga Tompkins. “If the scalp feels dry, tight, more sensitive or ‘off,’ this is where many people overcorrect,” warns Tompkins. She advises avoiding harsh scrubs and overly aggressive cleansing. Instead, she recommends using a good-for-the-scalp shampoo and adding an overnight scalp treatment. “When clients start treating the scalp with the same consistency they give their face, the quality of the hair that grows in often improves,” says Tompkins. Experts recommend scalp massage as part of your hair routine. This helps stimulate blood flow and lets the product really soak in, creating a healthier environment for the hair follicles.
Famous for thier high-tech shampoos and conditioners, this brand doesn't take hair health for granted. In fact, many credit their healthier locks and unrivalled shine to Olaplex's bond-building treatment system. Thier latest innovation is an easy-to-use leave-in treatment designed for the scalp, utilising the same healing technology to support the scalp’s barrier to help encourage thicker-looking lengths. It is stacked with good-for-the-hair plant oils like soybean seed, rice bran, pea seed, sunflower extracts, grape seed oil extracts, hydrolysed quinoa, and rosemary leaf extract, as well as niacinamide and arginine, to name a few.
To use: Part hair and, using the needle-nose applicator, squeeze the lotion directly onto the scalp. Massage thoroughly into the scalp to ensure it’s well covered. Use before styling wet hair or as an overnight treatment when hair is dry.
Shedding
“As our scalp ages, so do our hair follicles, and when this happens, the follicles aren’t strong enough to hold onto the hair it grows. So the hair falls out, and we see more shedding than when we were younger,” says Friese. According to Clive Hair Clinics, female pattern thinning is an inherited condition often triggered by stress, too much anaerobic exercise, medication, menopause, and polycystic ovary syndrome. Often, female pattern thinning begins at the hair parting, and hair recession at your temples widens, gradually thinning the hair over the scalp. “If hair is breaking more easily or losing elasticity and shine, treat the strands like delicate fabric,” says Tompkins. This includes reducing heat and friction and adding conditioning and heat protection.” Consider deep conditioning or strengthening treatments, and avoid excessive chemical processing, such as bleaching and straightening. Experts recommend sleeping on a silk pillowcase, especially if you colour or heat-style your hair; it makes a significant difference in hair shine by reducing friction and shedding.
One promising innovation is exosomes, particularly Dp Dermapen 4 Gold MG-EXO-GROW. Essentially, exosomes are messengers that contain signal molecules that stimulate regeneration. When we age, it’s not only the cells in the skin that age, but also the cells in the scalp and hair follicle cells that age. As the scalp ages, the hair follicles that produce the hair slow down.
As they work less, the hair becomes thinner until they give up completely. Called senescence, this slowing down is boosted by exosomes that signal cells to increase activity and work harder. This treatment is swift and minimally painful, lasting approximately 20 minutes. The MG-EXO-GROW exosomes are applied directly to the scalp with a syringe between parted hair. Next, using Dermapen microneedling to create tiny holes in the scalp triggers a healing response that promotes blood flow to the scalp and stimulates dormant hair follicles. With all microneedling treatments, a typical response is redness and pinpoint bleeding, both of which are normal. Expected to pay: Hair Regrowth with MG-Exo-Grow: $795 per treatment. The best results are achieved with three treatments, spaced one month apart.
For anyone with dry, frizzy, thinning hair, a leave-in conditioner is a girl's best friend. This newbie protects the hair from the effects of heated tools like straighteners. It gives dry, damaged hair shine, thanks to a nourishing formula packed with shea butter, wheat protein, argan oil, and ceramides. If you are looking for hope in a bottle, here it is.
Slower growth
Friese says that the hair growth cycle often slows with age, resulting in less noticeable new growth." This can also make it feel like hair takes longer to recover after a cut or shed.” She adds, “As our scalp ages, so do our hair follicles, and when this happens, the follicles aren’t strong enough to hold onto the hair it grows. So the hair falls out,” says Friese.
One natural solution is rosemary oil. Research on rosemary oil as a hair tonic indicates that it can boost hair growth, enhance shine, and slow hair shedding. But if you're wondering how rosemary can help your hair grow, we got some legit feedback from a professional dermatologist. Dr Brian Abittan, Director of Skin and Hair Rejuvenation at Mount Sinai Health System in NYC, says, "While certainly more trials and data are needed, rosemary oil seemingly has the potential to help with hair growth," says Abittan. "The action causing hair growth is not fully understood yet; however, rosemary oil's multiple ingredients (rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, camphor, etc.) may contain anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.” Abittan says, “Together, these may help contribute towards hair growth."
Angel En Provence Rosemary Hair Activating Regrowth Essence, $55
We have had great results with this natural essence. Stacked with rosemary, ginger, and perilla (a member of the mint family) extracts, these ingredients help boost scalp microcirculation.
To use: Apply two to three pumps to towel-dry hair and scalp after cleansing, then massage into scalp with fingertips for five minutes. Leave in and style as usual.
Brush with purpose
Everyone’s hair is different, so your routine should be tailored to your needs, but as hair gets older, brushing becomes increasingly detrimental. Experts agree: handle your hair with care. Ageing hair is often more fragile, so tools play a huge role in preventing unnecessary hair damage. Choose hair tools that are designed to promote hair health for this chapter in your life.
Tangle Teezer Ultimate Detangler Extra Gentle, $30
This brush brand has innovations for every hair type. This newbie was made for hair that sheds and is prone to breakage due to bleaching, thanks to its unique, wide-spaced tooth pattern. It's made to be extra gentle on delicate hair, to minimise breakage and shedding. With fewer teeth at the edges of the brush, there is less tension on fragile locks, making it effortless and gentle to detangle and stimulate your scalp from brushing.
One tip: Keep this hairbrush away from heat;it'ss meant for grooming only.
The signs to watch out for, here.