The order you apply products in any skincare routine is significant, especially sunscreen, says editor Trudi Brewer. Here’s dermatologists wade in with the best advice. Read on to learn more.
In any skincare routine, the order of application determines the results. For example, should you apply your SPF before or after your moisturiser? It turns out the answer is not so simple. "Generally speaking, the ingredients in a chemical sunscreen (oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene, and homosalate, to name a few, need to be absorbed into the skin so that they can do their job," says international skin expert and dermatologist Joshua Zeichner." You do not want to apply anything that will interfere with the penetration, including a thick moisturiser that will create a barrier between your skin and the SPF. Sunscreen is there to protect it," Zeichner says. While dermatologist Sejal Shah believes moisturiser on top of sunscreen can change the properties of your sunscreen. It can also alter the way that UV rays meet your skin," she explains. "Anything you apply on top can dilute the sunscreen and alter its efficacy."
Avène TINTED COMPACT CREAM SPF50, $55.
A combination of your makeup and high SPF all in one portable, cream-to-powder compact. It offers broad-spectrum protection from mineral screens, a mix of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, to protect against UVA and UVB rays. It also contains potent antioxidants, including vitamin E ( a brilliant antioxidant and photostable) and calming thermal spring water (in all Avène skincare products). In addition, there are two natural-looking shades, honey and beige.
Chemical vs. Mineral Sunscreen
To make things even more complicated, the type of sunscreen you use is essential in this debate. Here's the difference: Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing into your skin to block the UV rays from absorbing. At the same time, mineral sunscreens (either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that can leave skin with a white cast unless you rub them in) protect the skin by creating a physical barrier between your complexion and the sun. "Mineral-blocker sunscreen ingredients sit on the surface of the skin to reflect away UV light," explains Zeichner. "So it is not as important for them to be applied as a first layer. Or your last layer as a protective coating against the sun."
Naked Sundays SPF50+ Hydrating Glow Mist, $48.
Stacked with SPF 50 broad-spectrum UVA and UVB screens and Kakadu plum, a potent antioxidant helps fight free radical damage. At the same time, watermelon extract boosted by vitamin C, vitamin E and amino acids together makes this a great SPF that also hydrates and brighten the skin while you wear it.
Multi-tasking SPF
Some of our favourite beauty buys do more than one job. Known as multi-benefit products that contain all the ingredients needed to keep your skin safe and well-nourished in summer. "Many morning facial moisturisers are formulated with sunscreen in them," says Zeichner. But, he recommends, "Whether you use a general moisturiser with separate sunscreen or a combination product is ultimately a personal preference. Just make sure you use a moisturiser with an SPF of at least 30."
ULTRA VIOLETTE Queen Screen Luminising Sun Serum SPF 50+, $52.
This serum is laced with SPF, vitamin C, and antioxidants and is a great way to hydrate dry, mature skin with a sheer consistency that plays nice under your foundation. The brand recommends you use three full droppers of product each morning to ensure your face and neck are well covered.
The bottom line
So, should you put on your SPF before or after moisturiser? Both Zeichner and Shah agree on a tip to get the best of both worlds. After cleansing, apply a layer of lightweight moisturiser or serum to hydrate the skin, and then let it soak in thoroughly. Finally, finish with your SPF. That's what we do daily. "My best recommendation is to double-dip and layer a moisturiser with sunscreen first, let it fully absorb, and then layer another straight sunscreen, be it a mineral or chemical blocker, on top," says Zeichner.
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50+, $25.
For reapplying throughout the day, makeup artists swear by the refreshing gel texture of this formula, which you can be applied over foundation thanks to unique water capsules (UV absorbing agents). This technology leaves a protective veil on the skin that your complexion stays hydrated and well protected all day when blended with hyaluronic acid and royal jelly extract.
Our best SPF tip
Sunscreen needs to be applied 30 minutes before you go outdoors, allowing the ingredients to bind to the skin. Make sure you rub until you can't see the product. Finally, remember the two-hour rule: If you apply sunscreen an hour before heading out, you need to reapply it an hour after hitting the beach or pool.
Avène Sunscreen Aqua Fluid SPF50+, $28.
Crammed with five active SPF ingredients, including the physical block titanium dioxide, while keeping skin-reactive chemicals to a minimum. In addition, it contains a potent photostable vitamin E, coconut oil with glycerin, in a soothing thermal spring water base - like all Avène skincare. Finally, it's paraben, alcohol and fragrance-free.
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