You've got to hand it to brows, they’re constantly in the limelight regarding beauty trends. Those two little arches also make or break your makeup look. To understand how to tailor your brows to suit your face and find out what’s on trend, we asked a celebrated brow artist to guide us, by editor Trudi Brewer.
As far as trends go, brows get fuller and thinner as the decades pass. Most of us regret the '90s when we plucked our brows beyond recognition. In the 2010s, brows were squared off, filled in and outfitted with a super long tail. More recently, brows have been groomed, tattooed or microbladed to gain fullness, even stuck up with treatments like brow lamination. But one shape has stood the test of time: the boy brow. Think mid-80s and actor Brooke Shields' fluffy boy brow that defined true American beauty. Today, at 60, she still wears the perfect-looking brow she was born with. So fast forward to today, and it seems brows are going full circle, back to the 90s, sporting an anorexic shape. How do we feel about that? Here, makeup and brow artist Laura Williamson from Inco Studio in Ponsonby, Auckland, sheds light on those trends and how to find a timeless look to suit your face.
With thinner brows making a comeback, what's your preference?
Personally, I love a thinner ‘90s brow, especially in fashion and editorial looks. But entirely reshaping your brow structure for the trend can come with regrets. Many millennials are still recovering from that phase. The good news is that some excellent makeup hacks can be followed online to create the illusion of thinner brows without removing your existing brow hair. I like a balanced look—not too thin, not too bushy. A softly structured brow complements your features while still feeling fresh and current.
So, what’s the latest popular look?
There is a shift toward softly structured, straighter brows with a natural lift, clean, brushed-up fronts, and a barely there arch. It’s all about enhancing what you already have rather than over-sculpting.
Fluffy brows are our favourite. How do you achieve that look if your brows are thin?
Fluffy brows have a timeless appeal—they add youthfulness, softness, and structure to the face. Because of their naturally flattering qualities, I think they’ll remain a staple in beauty. If your brows are thinner, a brow lamination can be a game-changer. It lifts and sets the hairs in place, creating the illusion of fullness and giving that brushed-up, fluffy effect - even if you don’t have a lot of brow hair to begin with. You can also enhance the look by using a tinted brow gel with fibres to build volume, and then fill in any sparse areas with a fine-tipped pencil to mimic hair strokes. Products like Glossier Boy Brow or Benefit Gimme Brow are perfect for this.
Glossier Boy Brow Volumizing Eyebrow Gel-Pomade, $41.
The tiny brush allows for ultra-precise grooming, which grabs every hair. Thanks to a formula of beeswax, carnauba wax, and olive oil extract, it’s visibly volumising and ultra-conditioning, more like a fluffy pomade than a sticky wax. Expect no flaking or leaving that crunchy feeling in your brow hair. Brow and beauty experts across the globe rate this brow definer. There are seven shades, including clear, auburn and grey. Pictured here is the universally flattering colour Blond.
How do you decide on what shape suits your face?
The key is to follow your natural brow growth and tweak slightly for balance. It’s always best to consult a brow specialist. They can help you map your ideal shape based on your unique features. But here is a general guide:
Softly arched brows flatter round faces by adding definition.
Straighter brows can balance longer face shapes.
A gentle curve works well on square or heart-shaped faces to soften angles.
Is bigger better when it comes to brow grooming?
Not necessarily. While fuller brows can be flattering, an overly big brow can overpower your features. It’s all about balance and proportion. The goal is to find a shape and fullness that enhances and complements your natural features.
What are your pro tips on filling in gaps to look like hair?
Start by keeping the tails slightly lifted and avoiding harsh, blocky lines. Softer, feathered strokes will give a fresher, more natural look. Brushing the hairs upward with a clear or tinted brow gel adds fullness and creates a subtle lift. For an instant brightening effect, apply a small amount of highlighter or concealer just beneath the arch of the brow bone. This lifts the entire eye area and helps you look more awake. When it comes to creating a youthful brow, less is often more. Use a micro-tip brow pencil or fine brow pen and draw soft, upward strokes that mimic the direction of your natural growth. The trick is to go slow and build gradually. Finally, a clear or tinted gel adds the polish and finish.
What are your must-have brow tools?
A spoolie brush (for grooming), a fine-tipped brow pencil or pen, and a tinted brow gel or wax (if you have strong hairs to tame into place). An angled brush, brow powder (for softer definition), and tweezers (plucking pesky hairs between your brow appointments).
Williamson’s favourites are below
HOURGLASS Arch Brow Sculpting Pencil, $69. MAC 263 Small Angle Brush, $59. Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze, $25. Tweezerman Classic Slant Tweezer, $51.
If you want to shape your brows, where do you start?
First, see a brow specialist to save your hair (and tears). If you need to tweak your brows between appointments, brush brow hair upward to reveal your natural shape and carefully remove only the strays below your brow.
What should you never do with brow grooming?
Overpluck. Unfortunately for some of us, brow hair doesn’t always grow back the same (or at all) when you overpluck. Be extra careful with the top area and inner corners. Avoid going too dark or square with the inner corners - it can look harsh and unnatural.
Best brow tip of all time?
Work with what you naturally have, not against it.
A plant-based gloss, affordable cleanser, and boujee fragrance.