Retinol, Hyaluronic acid, Niacinamide and copper peptides are on the list of active, anti-ageing ingredients we love to slather on our skin. But, unfortunately, not all ingredients play nice together, says editor Trudi Brewer. Here's a list of the combinations that will stop your skincare from doing the best job.
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There are two issues with ingredient combining. First, it can decrease product efficacy, and second, it can cause skin reactions such as dryness, stinging, redness, and even dark spots. So what's are the best skincare combos? These top international dermatologists share their advice, and to quote, Californian-based dermatologist Dr David Lortscher, and CEO of skincare brand Curology. "More is not always better.".
Vitamin C with AHA’s (alpha-hydroxy acids)
Californian-based dermatologist Shirley Chi says to never use vitamin C after exfoliating the skin. "This includes exfoliating ingredients include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), like glycolic acid, beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), like salicylic acid, and scrubs. This rule applies to the serums you use at home as well as in-salon exfoliating treatments, like chemical peels. "I always recommend that you do not use vitamin C serum right after you do anything like that," says Dr Chi, "It's very irritating and does more harm than good because your pores are so open." However, if you can find a serum that combines vitamin C with gentle AHA, this is a one-stop, skin-brightening option.
Avène A-Oxitive Antioxidant Defense Serum, $65
For anyone with sensitive, dry skin the gradual release of pro-vitamin C and E in this serum, gradually releases throughout the day, not only to brighten the but if offer protection from the environment too. The airless pump keeps it potent.
Murad Environmental Shield Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum, $185
Our style director swears by this serum. “The results were visible after a few days,” says Louise Hilsz. Stacked with stable L-ascorbic vitamin C as well fruit acids that gently exfoliates to help the vitamin C penetrate deep into the skin.
Retinoids with hydroxy acids
Another ingredient you'll want to keep away from your AHAs and BHAs when using retinol or products that contain vitamin A. Though retinoids are great for stimulating cellular turnover, they also have the potential to irritate that risk factor increases when you're using them on freshly exfoliated skin. "Using AHA’s and BHA’s along with retinoids can cause excessive dryness," says Pittsburgh-based dermatologist Dr Sarah Campbell. She adds, "To avoid irritation, she suggests using glycolic wash one to two times per week to exfoliate and use a retinoid-based serum on the non-exfoliating nights."
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1, $99
An industry leader for their Crystal Retinal 1 formulation, this high-strength serum is ideal for retinol beginners. The hard-working retinoic acid, boosts radiance, while hyaluronic acid and calming vitamin E offers skin comfort while you use it. Best applied at night, the range offers a step-up system, depending on your skin’s tolerance. With levels 3, 6, 10, there is also an in-clinic only, 20 per cent option.
Environ Focus Care Retinol Serum 1, $130
It’s inspiring when a plastic surgeon puts his name and expertise on a skincare brand. Case in point with Environ. Des Fernades rates the benefits of vitamin A, so he offers high concentrations with a smorgasbord of vitamin A derivatives. Beta-carotene, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate all in one formula. The step-up system allows you to increase your strength.
Copper peptides with vitamin C
Copper peptides are becoming popular in skincare due to their ability to stimulate skin renewal. It’s an ingredient that until you add it to your skincare routine you would never think you needed it. However, don't mix these protiens with vitamin C. "Copper peptides should not be used with vitamin C as they can oxidize Vitamin C and reduce its antioxidant effect," says Dr Campbell. Instead, to achieve the maximum benefits of each ingredient split them between your morning and evening routine or use them on alternating days.
Mario Badescu Super Peptide Serum,
$72
A blend of potent copper protein peptides and sodium hyaluronate work to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while boosting moisture levels in the skin. While aloe vera and chamomile extracts help soothe dry skin. We love using this serum in the morning under an SPF before applying makeup.
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3), $73
Think of this as a skin repairing serum with an alphabet of protein peptides that stimulate your collagen, elastin & glycosaminoglycan production. In easy speak, it helps recharge and plump up the skin, offering those vital antioxidant benefits. A violet-coloured watery serum, you can apply this before other serums, day and night creams.
Niacinamide with vitamin C
Otherwise known as vitamin B3, this antioxidant is one of our favourites for the way it brightens the skin and helps even out the look of brown spots. Niacinamide plays well with most ingredients except vitamin C. "Because niacinamide is anti-inflammatory, the skin reacts very minimally to it, and side effects such as irritation are unusual," says Dr. Lortscher. "It should be compatible with most other skincare products, and for best results, use a leave-on product such as a moisturiser."
Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum, 30’s $90 & 60’s, $165
The latest in the line-up of famous little ceramide capsules contacts a potent hyaluronic acid with zero H20 technology that sinks within minutes. The ceramides, stacked with fatty acids lock in that moisture, while ginger extract, together nourishes and firms ageing skin. Use one bio-degradable capsule, am and pm.
Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum, $77
We adore Drunk Elephant skincare, so naturally, it was going to feature in this edit. This water-based serum benefits from the heart amount of skin-loving pro-vitamin B5, wheat germ oil and hyaluronic acid to plump the skin. While the addition of the pineapple enzyme helps refine it. Apply alone, or you can mix it with your favourite moisturiser.
SPF a standalone
If you're going to use one skincare product, every expert agrees, make it a daily dose of SPF. After all prevention is better than any cure. is the only way to effectively protect your skin from cancer and environmental aggressors, leading to premature signs of ageing. Given its importance, SPF is a necessary extra step in your beauty routine. And while some brands make SPF drops you can mix with makeup or moisturisers, as a rule, sunscreen is the last step in your skincare routine before you apply makeup over the top. "Don't mix sunscreen with your makeup or moisturiser and apply as one. Instead, sunscreen should be applied as a single layer to preserve the protective SPF factors," says Dr Lortscher.
ENVIRON Rad Shield Mineral Sunscreen, $93.
I am a sunscreen addict and for me it’s all about how it feels, when it comes to wearing it daily. This pure mineral screen, with skin-loving antioxidants, offers vital UVA and UVB protection under the sun. But most importantly it feels great and plays nice under makeup and over your daily moisturiser.
Avène Sunscreen Aqua-Fluid Face SPF50+ , $28.
Those with sensitive skin will be thrilled to find a new pocket-sized facial sunscreen. Ultra-lightweight, with minimal chemical filters and no fragrance. The SunSitive protective formula offers a high SPF, boosted by photostable vitamin E precursor, in a base of thermal spring water.
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