VITAMIN C

To get your complexion looking brighter and feeling firming, one ingredient that stacks up better than most is vitamin C. Editor Trudi Brewer shares why autumn is the time to kickstart a clear complexion with this powerhouse, potent antioxidant.

 
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The secret is out: Vitamin C is a skincare superhero. How does it work? It’s a potent tyrosinase inhibitor of the melanin pigment pathway. Applied to the skin, vitamin C helps fade brown spots without altering your skin's natural pigment. In addition, it can gently reduce the look of acne scarring, boost collagen production, and reduce inflammation in the skin. Research also shows that it can help protect the skin from pre-cancerous changes caused by UV rays by neutralising the free radicals that bombard our skin daily. Fact: It’s among the best active ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams and skincare in general. With one of our favourite anti-ageing skincare products below, we're sure you will come to love vitamin C as much as we do.

Here are the facts and how to add a daily dose of vitamin C to your daily skincare routine.

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A potent antioxidant, vitamin C can neutralise damaging molecules called free radicals, floating around unseen but in our atmosphere and accelerating signs of ageing. However, unlike retinoids (vitamin A), vitamin C does not make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn. The good news is that when layered underneath an SPF 50, vitamin C protects the skin even further. Most skin experts call it a ‘safety net’ to mop up those free radicals that can penetrate an SPF.

 

Q + A Brightening Serum Vitamin C, $15.

This serum is great value for money in our budget-conscious times. Thanks to its antioxidant-rich and hydrating formula, it will brighten and refresh your skin. It’s a lightweight, fast-absorbing serum with encapsulated vitamin C, volcanic soil, and moisture-magnet hyaluronic acid to give dull and aged skin a brightening boost. The other great news is it’s widely available at Life Pharmacies and Woolworths supermarkets.


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Vitamin C can also stimulate the skin’s production of collagen, a protein naturally found in our skin that increases skin firmness and elasticity, which promotes a plump and hydrated-looking skin. Because of this, using a powerful, stable vitamin C serum daily over time can help smooth out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

 

Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 4 x 10ml $168.

Like a daily supplement for the body, you can mix a few drops of this powerful, brightening skin treatment with your daily moisturiser to boost your skin's luminosity in the morning or evening. The perfect addition to your skincare routine, this product's potent vitamin C stays stable thanks to the airless pump packaging. It is a botanical cocktail of lightening ingredients, including mulberry and grapefruit extracts, skin-clarifying salicylic acid, algae extract, and caffeine to brighten dull skin.


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Vitamin C can brighten dark spots because it inhibits an enzyme in the skin called tyrosinase that causes skin discolouration, Although there has been little research on how effectively vitamin C does this, one small study published in 1996 found that vitamin C reduced the appearance of dark skin patches or age-related freckles in 19 out of 34 people who used it.

 

Sunday Riley C.E.O Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil, $155.

Combining vitamin C and turmeric oil works wonders in tackling skin issues such as acne scars, fine wrinkles, and sunspots. This cold-pressed, nutrient-rich oil is formulated with a gentle THD ascorbate (a form of vitamin C that is lipid-soluble and helps protect skin from free radicals) that stays stable in oxygen and water. Once blended with energising golden turmeric oil, it boosts the radiance of your skin. And if all that has not made you want to try this oil, adding vitamin-rich evening primrose, red raspberry seed, neroli, and jojoba oils will seal the deal. Massage 2-3 drops into your face and neck in the morning or evening.


Fact

Found in water-based and anhydrous (meaning without water) skincare formulations, vitamin C is a notoriously unstable molecule. It can easily break down into a different molecule that does not help the skin. For example, L-ascorbic acid, a vitamin C found in many skin care products, degrades when exposed to heat or sunlight. Even if the vitamin C in a product remains stable, it may not penetrate the skin deeply enough to benefit it. This is because the skin’s outermost layer repels water-loving molecules like L-ascorbic acid, where other vitamin C derivatives come into play. Look out for ingredients such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, an oil-soluble, new-generation of vitamin C, which easily penetrates the skin’s outer layer while being gentle on the skin.

Drunk Elephant C-Tango Multivitamin Eye Cream, $110.

Calling natural skincare lovers, this eye cream is perfect for you. Known as clean-clinical skincare, the hero ingredient in this line from the brand Drunk Elephant is Marula Oil. When blended with vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, vitamin E, cucumber extract, and protein-rich peptides, the ultra-hydrating effects of Marula Oil supplement a lightweight cream that brightens, smooths and rejuvenates the delicate, sensitive skin around your eyes.


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To maximise the effects of vitamin C, opt for prodcuts with opaque packaging, to help prevent the vitamin C from degrading. Also, L-ascorbic acid can cause irritation, for those with sensitive skin or rosacea, so look for formulations that also contains vitamin E and ferulic acid. Both can improve the vitamin’s stability and absorbtion, while reducting inflamation.

 

Dr. Barbara Sturm The Good C, $291.

This brand’s philosophy is about respecting, not challenging, the skin in any way. So Dr Strum has taken her time to formulate a vitamin C serum that works for all skin types, including the very sensitive. With the brightening benefits of stabilised, synthetic vitamin C, in a modest 5 per cent strength, it gradually improves the skin tone without compromising the skin’s barrier.


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Whether your skin is sensitive or not, gradual testing of new ingredients is always the best way to introduce active skincare into your regime. Start slowly—three times a week at first, and then work up to daily use. Remember, with any new ingredient, it takes several weeks of continuous use to start to see improvement in skin tone.

 

Environ Focus Care Radiance+ Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream, $90.

This high-tech cream works on the skin's clarity by targeting melanocytes. These cells are the melanin-producing cells that give our skin its colour. When these go into overdrive in response to hormonal changes, sun exposure, and some medication, brown patches appear on the skin's surface and are hard to shift. A daily dose of this oil-soluble, vitamin C-enriched cream will help to gently fade the brown patches and give skin clarity and luminosity. We like that this formulation was engineered to be well-tolerated and made with the lipid form of vitamins C and E. It is less likely to irritate but also a bit more stable, making it suitable for a prolonged shelf life and your skin.


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Serums stacked with vitamin C deliver a high concentration of actives in a simple, layer-able form. Vitamin C also plays best with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which are all excellent antioxidants and support each other, helping to fight free radical damage and collagen production.

 

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum, $77.

Known for its sensitive-skin-friendly products, this is an excellent option for battling breakouts and dark spots. Formulated with salicylic acid, which helps unclog pores and prevent future breakouts, it contains ten per cent L-ascorbic acid, making it less likely to irritate. Soothing ingredients also help to calm sensitivities. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid will add a hydration dose and plump the skin.


Vitamin C also assists in the production of collagen, making it a great anti-ageing ingredient that encourages bright, firm and glowing skin.