Once upon a time, the health benefits of fungi were found exclusively in health food stores, but today, it’s popping up in our beauty routines. There is a shroom boom in beauty, says editor Trudi Brewer, who shares how mushrooms can benefit the skin.
Oyster mushrooms
Mushrooms are everywhere right now, from fungi-inspired interiors to handbags and accessories. But nowhere has the' shroom boom' been so big than in beauty. Used for well-being is nothing new regarding mushroom extracts; Eastern cultures have praised their benefits for centuries. Now, beauty brands are harnessing their superpowers for a range of concerns. Gabe Kennedy, co-founder of Plant People, believes, "Mushrooms support both innate and adaptive immunity when ingested, and when applied topically, they contain tons of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, which can help the skin's anti-ageing functions." Michael Ahmad, senior director of global education at Herbivore, a plant-based solution for every beauty concern, believes, "Many mushrooms are classified as adaptogens, used in herbal remedies to restore homeostasis to the body. They do so by extending the resistance stage of the body's stress response, supporting the normalisation of hormone levels while reducing inflammation. Mushroom extracts can help protect the skin from environmental aggressors and restore troubled skin to its peaceful baseline."
There are also dozens of scientific studies and clinical trials to confirm the benefits of fungi. In this 2016 study, doctors found that mushrooms helped combat ageing, reduced the severity of inflammatory skin disease, and corrected hyperpigmentation (brown spots). In this study published in 2019, doctors discovered that beta-glucan, found in mushrooms, helped improve the skin barrier and protect your skin from the environment, which is ideal for those who suffer from sensitive skin. Further evidence came from a 2017 study that found some mushrooms contain unusually high amounts of two essential antioxidants that can help fight ageing and bolster the skin’s health.
The mushrooms making their way into beauty products
With over 14,000 species of mushrooms, not all are safe to eat or slather on your skin. Some are deadly, while others are healing and nourishing. The benefit of science has determined the safest types of mushrooms for our complexions and the key benefits they provide. Dermatologist and creator of his eponymously named skincare brand, Dr Dennis Gross, believes, "One of the most important things to look for in skincare products using mushrooms as an ingredient is the delivery system. Mushrooms must be formulated in a delivery system that allows them to penetrate the skin. Encapsulating the mushroom increases its penetration into the skin's deep layers and absorption through the cell membranes." The result - more effective skincare.
Here, we unpack what shroom does and how it works for different skin concerns. Below are five of the most popular fungi varieties touted by skincare experts for their unique beauty benefits.
Chaga Mushrooms
It's not the prettiest, but it's one of the most popular mushroom varieties used in beauty products today, and for good reason. Proven three times more effective at fighting free radicals than acai berries, it’s those high levels of antioxidants that, according to Dr Gross, enable them to "Neutralise free radicals and have anti-inflammatory properties to help increase blood circulation.”
Dr. Dennis Gross B3Adaptive SuperFoods Stress Rescue Super Serum, $144.
This is a soothing powerhouse blend for anyone with stressed-out skin. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) reduces inflammation, while superfoods like avocado, cacao, and perilla sprouts reduce the appearance of redness and dryness. But the blend of ashwagandha and Chaga mushroom extract heals and calms the skin while strengthening the delicate barrier.
Cordyceps Mushrooms
These mushrooms have proven antioxidant benefits and energy-boosting powers. Dr Gross says this ancient mushroom possesses anti-inflammatory properties, too. "It can positively affect the immune system by fighting oxidative stress." Used in many skincare products, it hydrates, boosts collagen and elastin production, and soothes inflammation.
Origins Mega Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Face Cream, $144.
Perhaps one of the first beauty brands to harness the multi-benefits of mushrooms was Origins. This soothing cream is laced with reishi and cordyceps mushroom extracts, and the list of soothing plant botanicals in this cream is long. These include jojoba seed, orange and mandarin, lavender, sunflower, olive oils, buckbean, ginger root, turmeric, and wheat bran extracts. For anyone with sensitive, reactive skin, this cream will be your skin’s savour.
Reishi Mushrooms
Known as the queen of mushrooms, this adaptogenic super-mushroom supports the skin's resilience against our ever-changing environment. It also boasts brilliant humectant qualities, which help lock in moisture and improve the skin’s barrier function. Anyone who has stressed, sensitive skin can benefit from reishi mushroom extracts.
SHISEIDO ULTIMUNE POWER INFUSING CONCENTRATE, 30MLS $139.
One bottle is sold every 15 seconds, which is why it’s a cult skin concentrate (pre-serum). For any skincare routine, ethnicity, age, and skin type, there's only one word you should remember when you think about Ultimune: immunity. This concentrate supports the skin’s barrier against pollution, UV damage and stress with a combination of antioxidants, including the Reishi mushroom and iris root extracts. Finally, the ImuCalm Compound blends rose and lotus to induce calm while you apply it day and night.
Shiitake Mushrooms
Shiitake contains an abundance of beauty benefits. Stacked with kojic acid, shiitake extract brightens the skin and is ideal for fading dark spots and acne scars.
Murad Invisiblur Perfecting Shield Broad Spectrum SPF 30 | PA+++, $140.
The benefits of this lotion are endless. It contains shiitake mushrooms and moisturising sunflower and cucumber extracts to soothe, hydrate, and calm. The brand’s clever Soft-Focus complex acts like a primer, helping to blur the look of fine lines, pores, and uneven texture. To top that off, it has SPF 30, so your skin is protected 365 days a year.
Tremella Mushrooms
Tremellas are spongy and translucent, Known as snow or silver ear mushrooms. They are used in skincare for their hydration-boosting, skin-plumping benefits and an extract that rivals hyaluronic acid. If your skin is dehydrated, tremella can attract and retain up to 500 times its weight in water, forming a protective barrier and preventing water loss at the same time.
Kora Organics Milky Mushroom Gentle Cleansing Oil, $72.
Along with the hydrating benefits of tremella mushrooms, this versatile two-phase cleanser swiftly and gently removes all makeup, including mascara. It’s stacked with a hydrating botanical blend of aloe vera, sunflower, macadamia, rosehip, apple, basil, seed, olive and geranium flower and soothing calendula flower extract.
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